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Found 40 results

  1. Coral Box WF-04 WIFI Dosing Pump

    Feature The Most of Smaller WiFI Dosing Pump The Best of Apps for Wifi Dosing Accuracy to 0.1mL Easy Programming on your smartphone Smartphone setting can save time for newbie to setting and more accuracy to prevent input wrong on the traditional LCD dosing pump Alarm Flash if lack of Liquid or system failure Aluminum case for prevent corrosion Internal Duel CPU to provides REAL Time monitor on the system Auto calculation if power supply sudden failure Ideal for dosing CA / MAG / KH or RO Motor and Tube 1 Year Warranty Mult Language : English / Germany / Spain / Norway / Denmark / French / Sweden / Italy http://coral-box.com/wifi-dosing-pump.html manual download here Specification Package include. Calibration tester / 4M PVC tube / 4 Pump Head / Power Supply Power : 110V to 240V 12V 1A 50/60hz Size : 180 x 75 x 65mm https://www.fish-street.com/coral-box-wf-04-wifi-dosing-pump?search_string=WF-04
  2. Coral Box DCA2000 return pump

    Feature High performance motor with innovation electronics, and energy savig up to 50% than before. IC Electronic Detection, automatic power-off protection upon no water Motor Protection if rotor is blocked Super Quiet Operation Can operate in Marine and Fresh Water No Copper components , safety on your tank! With Wear-resistant Ceramic Shaft, longer operation life 10 Mins Feed Model(Or Pause to resume to normal) Internal Use Only! DC Pump do not suppose for External Use Sensor Function 10/ 30 /50 Mins Feed Time Auto Drop 2 Step for Feed Mode within 1 hours to avoid overflow function http://coral-box.com/dca-pump.html Manual download here~ https://www.fish-street.com/jebao_dcs2000_return_pump_Coral Box DCA2000?search_string=dca2000 come to see more detail~
  3. Coral Box DCA1200 return pump

    Coral Box DCA1200 return pump Feature High performance motor with innovation electronics, and energy savig up to 50% than before. IC Electronic Detection, automatic power-off protection upon no water Motor Protection if rotor is blocked Super Quiet Operation Can operate in Marine and Fresh Water No Copper components , safety on your tank! With Wear-resistant Ceramic Shaft, longer operation life 10 Mins Feed Model(Or Pause to resume to normal) Internal Use Only! DC Pump do not suppose for External Use Sensor Function 10/ 30 /50 Mins Feed Time Auto Drop 2 Step for Feed Mode within 1 hours to avoid overflow function https://www.fish-street.com/jebao-dc1200-return-pump?search_string=dca1200 come here to see more detail~ Coral Box DCA water level pump user's manual.pdf
  4. Jebao WIFI Cross Flow Pump CP-150

    Check out for Jebao CP lastest version: CP150 is without Reserve Mode (IF you need this function you must order CP55 or using T1 controller). CP150 improve a W1 W2 and W3 Else mode which CP55 did not have this experience and more powerfull Feature Crossflow technology make the flow return to pump directly 360 Degree without dead spots Create Different type of the Flow similar as WaveMaker First Mobile WaveMaker (Need Order with our Aqualink T1 Mobile controller) Clockwise the flow as you set Mode H : Normal Flow Rate as the speed output W1: WaveBox Function ~ Idea for set a pulse mode for set wavebox function W2: wave Box function enahance W3: Normal Mode with Reef Mode Feed Mode 10Mins Specifications Size 32.5cm x 6.5cm x 4.5cm Thickness 15mm Super Extreme Magnet Include Power 100V to 240V 50/60hz DC 4A 65W Assume 23000 to 28500 Litres (Cross Flow for Whole Tank) *Suppose Order Aqualink WiFi controller to OverClock or reduce the flow to accuracy more tb video 1.mp4
  5. Coral Box Refugium 15W Frag LED

    Check out the nano lighting ~ Features: Cree LED Touch control function Intelligent temperature control fan Adjustable bracket Simple installation 2 dimmable channels to control light intensity Specification Parameters: Max Power 16W Input voltage: AC100-240V LED quantity:9pcs Dimention: 220x110x30mm Suitable for:30-45cm tank Certificate : CE,ROHS Shell material:E-plastic Lifespan:50000h Net/Gross weight:1.08kg/1.2kg Instruction: Turn on / off : click the plus button and minus button at the same time to turn on / off the light. Single channel control: click the plus button to strengthen the white light intensity and press minus button to weaken the blue light intensity. Adjust the light intensity of 2 channels together: long press plus button to strengthen the white and blue light intensity at the same time and long press the minus button to weaken the white light and blue intensity. CoralBox Nano Light User's manual (AS-80).pdf https://www.fish-street.com/coral-box-refugium-15w-frag-led come here to place the order~
  6. NEW PRODUCT! Coming this winter REEF-Habitats - Advanced Aquarium Systems + REEF-Habitat Nano! Our all-new marine aquarium systems include an opti-white aquarium, a sump and cabinet and also come with a range of other marine equipment, depending on particular package chosen. The sumped aquariums (3 large sizes) are fitted with a black glass weir and black glass rear panel. Easy to clean acrylic weir comb and our Rota-Flo and duckbill nozzles. The drain plumbing is a twin standpipe construction with high quality ball valve fitted with pre-built hard pipe plumbing and flexible pipe on the return. These tanks have thicker glass and are taller (500mm) and deeper (500mm) than our Signature range. All sumped cabinets are available in high gloss white or black at 80cm tall. The aquariums are available in 3 widths 50cm - 60cm - 90cm. From £699.99 to £1999.99 depending on size and package chosen. All sumped packages come with a DC REEF-Pump and Filter sock as standard. The REEF-Habitat Nano is an evolution of our MicroHabitat 60 but with new CNC cut internal walls and our V2iLumenAir Connect 25w, WiFi controllable lighting system as standard. For the first time ever, these aquarium packages can now be delivered direct to the end-user via tail lift courier for a nominal fee! #TMC #TropicalMarineCentre #TMCTelford #REEFHabitats #Advanced #Aquarium #Systems #Nano #ReefAquarium
  7. TMC FAQ's

    Hi, I thought I would add a FAQ's of the most common questions we receive at TMC! 1, Do the Tropical Marine Centre have open days for the public to buy? Health and safety and staffing is the biggest issue. We have a lot of tanks and not a lot of space for people!, plus we can’t sell you anything! Becouse we only supply the Trade. 2, Do we a paticular fish in stock? We don't give out livestock availability, but we do often have a so many different species in stock. Please speak to your local aquarium store and TMC stockist for more information. 3, Do we supply spares for our equipment? Yes we do, but you will need to contact your local TMC stockist to order parts for you. 4, Do we stock tank bred fish? Yes we do, if we can get a tank bred fish over a wild caught fish we will do so.
  8. Tank Background

    Just wondering what people use to paint/spray the back of their tanks I'm looking at doing mins black but didn't know what to use? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7r7zvZ3Gik&feature=youtu.be&app=desktop Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Tds

    Hi everyone purchased some RO from local fish shop it read 007 on the TDS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Like the title says those with either of the 2 tank models tell me if they have feet and if they have are adjustable? Sent from my LG-H815 using Tapatalk
  12. Before my wipeout previously I had two blue cheek gobys they done a great job turning the sand over ect but at the cost of covering everything in the tank and making a lot of corals moody. What goby could I add that is not going to get a mouthful of sand and proceed to spread it everywhere I'm happy for mounds ect to be made I just don't want full on spreading I now have really fine sand and a lot more corals that I want to stay happy. Or any ideas on something to keep the sand turning over snails are out of the question as I have another Polyclad Flatworm in there I've yet to catch !! So snails will simply be food for them. I have a sand sifter but it's a large space that needs churning over at present I stir it with my claw every couple of days. Any ideas Cheers Marty
  13. Now looked in my sump at the bottom of first chamber and it's covered on the bottom with what I can describe as like blobs of jelly/eggs I can see plenty of amphipods moving around is it there eggs pictured below if not what are they there is no exaggeration probably near on 100
  14. Hi Everyone, Just joined your site and I'm already amazed how helpful and knowledgable you guys are. I have kept tropical fish for a number of years and I would love to set up a Reef Aquarium. I Want to treat myself as I'm retiring Due to ill health. I would love to patiently bring all the necessary equipment together over a few months and set up everything but because of my health that is not very practical. I was looking at one of the All in One solutions. I understand they are very costly in comparison and I have not got money to burn but this will be a treat for retirement. I would really appreciate any recommendations or suggestions you may have. I'm not in a great hurry I want to ensure that I do everything possible to ensuring any setup will be in the best interest of the livestock that I buy. I have started reading some of the books that you guys recommend. I'm doing as much research as I can to be able to feel confident setting up my Aquarium. Regards, Mike
  15. Hi to all.. :cheers: thinking going back..my wife is not happy..she wants something else instead of a new 4ft new baby :lol: anyone know who want to sell 4ft braceless and rimless tank and cabinets :clapping: Thank you guys Daniel Edited by mrdave
  16. One of the most common diseases in the home aquaria is "white spot", this is true for both fresh and salt water. White Spot is caused by a parasite called Cryptocaryon irritans (for Marine white spot) and Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (for Freshwater White Spot). The parasite is a type of protozoa which lives between the skin cells and those cells in the gills during one stage of its life cycle. Understanding this life cycle can help us understand why certain fish seem more likely to be affected by Ich and how it is treated. Ich Life Cycle For both the fresh and saltwater forms there is the same basic 3 stages of life. 1. The Parasitic stage- (trophont)- The parasite is embedded into the skin or gills feeding on tissue debris and body fluids. 2. The Reproductive stage- (tomont)- the now mature parasite leaves the fishes skin and gills and lands on the substrate. Here the parasite encrusts and becomes a cyst, the parasite reproduces asexually. 3. The Infective stage- (tomites)- when large amounts of offspring have been produced, the cyst breaks open, dispersing the large amounts of parasite into the water column. These parasites need to find a host as soon as possible. The time span in which this happens over varies considerably between the 2 species and the environment they are in. This is where aquarists use nature to their advantage in order to get rid of the parasite. Symptoms The symptoms of Ich are the same or similar between freshwater and saltwater ich. If your fish was healthy and fat prior to the outbreak it has a high chance of survival if you act fast after seeing one of the symptoms. Just keeping the fish eating during the symptoms can up the chances of survival substantially. Common symptoms: • White Nodules that look like grains of sugar or sand on the skin • Irritated gills • Laboured Breathing • Lack of appetite In later stages: • Clouded eyes It is important to note that the ich parasite tends to be more present in late afternoon to evening as there are suggestions that it is mildly photosynthetic. Treatment Whilst researching the various methods of treatment for this article, I have come across an important fact; most of the treatments are to one of 2 things. They either build up fish immunity to prevent re-infection or to change the environment to prevent re-infection. List of some treatments: All are tried at hobbyist's risk. Many hobbyists have their own opinions on various methods. The following are based on research and personal experience of myself and Luke. Fortunately, during our time at university Ich was something we were able to research extensively for an assignment. - Hypo-salinity/Hyper-salinity (depending on whether Fresh or Saltwater Species)- Many fish cannot tolerate the change and should be done very slowly if attempted. It is important that the fish is watched for signs of stress. This is often done at wholesalers and importers. From personal experience, many marine fish are transported in hypo-salinity, some species such as blue stripe pipefish purchased directly from wholesalers maybe in a salinity of 1.017, this is apparently to reduce stress to the fish and help prevent ich. This method stresses the parasite to death when in the tomont and tomite stages. As for time scales of this, it varies massively dependant on the source of information that you use. Most suggest 2-4weeks after observing no spots on the fish. It is important to note that this treatment should only be done in a quarantine tank which has dimmed lighting, no substrate and something like drainpipe for cover. There is also evidence that a dip of fresh RO/DI water for marine ich or saltwater for Freshwater ich can work, although tolerances for this depend on species. - Increased Temperature- There is some schools of thought that increasing the temperature will make the lifecycle of the parasite burn out as it decreases the time for each stage. There seems little evidence to support this, although it is known that the cycle is quicker in warmer waters. - Copper Based Medications- All forms of ich can be treated with copper based medications. This should be done in a quarantine tank that is dedicated for the treatment of Ich. The treatment of copper kills the tomont and tomite stages of the ich parasite. In the case of marine ich, the tank cannot be used for coral or marine inverts as copper traces will become present in the tanks silicon, this can be seen by a blue discolouration of the silicon. There is evidence that copper based treatments can reduce the fish’s immunity, and tends to be a “last chance saloon” for the fish. There are many treatments available on the market, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. - Garlic Based Foods- There is some evidence that Garlic can help with immunity of the fish. There are loads of foods on the market that contain garlic oil as enrichment. It can also be purchased in oil form. It is known that garlic can stimulate appetite and this is how many believe how garlic helps with the treatment of ich, as the fish eats it becomes healthier and can battle the parasite by natural means. This tends to be the secretion of mucus that prevents the irritation and prevents re-infection of the parasite into the skin. Garlic is often added to frozen foods for the training of mandarins to try and persuade them to feed. - Other “natural” methods- Ich outbreaks have been seen in the wild, and as nature is this amazing force, often only the sick and weak will become prey to the parasite. In the marine environment there are a few invertebrates and fish that are known as “cleaners” which will feed on the various parasites. In particular the cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis) and the cleaner wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus), can be used to help and possibly cure (in mild cases) ich. However, the purchase of a cleaner wrasse for ich treatment is unadvisable as the cleaner wrasse is also susceptible to ich and therefore might become infected itself. A cleaner shrimp however cannot contract ich and therefore a good place to start in treating mild ich cases. In one case a tang was showing signs of ich, 2 cleaner shrimp were added to the aquarium and within 5 minutes of them being added, the tang went to be cleaned having probably having never seen a cleaner shrimp in its life. - The “Tank Moving Method”- This is a method I stumbled upon during my research into treatments and seems to be so simple, but should be effective if carried out clinically. This method involves regular water changes and 2 quarantine tanks. The method involves swapping the fish to a new tank every water change. When the tank becomes “empty” it is thoroughly cleaned and dried to remove any trace of the parasite in the tank. It removes the tomont and tomites from the water and is putting the fish into a “clean” tank of the parasite. It is labour intensive, but should prevent the life cycle continuing and no parasites re-infecting the fish in question. I hope this gives you all the help you need in surviving Ich in your aquarium, and I think I have covered all the basic areas that will help you get a better understanding of those white blobs on your fish that can be fatal. -“Fallow” tank method- this method is now often quoted in the treatment of ich in the long term. Although this method is logical in the sense that no fish = no ich assuming the life cycle of the parasite burns though, however it is not known how long the parasites can survive in cyst form therefore timescale is difficult to determine. Another critical part of this method is the infected fish during this fallow period. 1 QT set up is not enough to break the cycle hence method above. There is also evidence that although “spots” may not be present on the surface of the skin, the parasite could be in the fish gills or in the water/ on the substrate. ++ From this research, it is also important to remember that ANY water from an external source could contain the parasite, and this includes any within corals and invertebrates such as anemones, zoa and LPS and every addition could therefore carry a risk. Maintaining good husbandry including QT of all new additions (including coral and other inverts) could reduce this risk. Secondary to this, ther sessile form of ich could also be present of substrate of infected tanks and care should be taken to avoid the introduction of substrates of infected tanks where possible.++ As careful as we are in the aquarium setting, it is not always possible to prevent ich entering our systems, however it is important to remember some of these points when designing the aquarium system, a space for suitable QT or even just a spare tank and equipment to allow for cases can really aid in the battle of this disease. REFERENCES: A. Colorni (1985) Aspects of the biology of Cryptocaryon irritans, and hyposalinity as a control measure in cultured gilt-head sea bream Sparus aurata, Diseases of Aquatic Organisms Vol.1 pages 19-22 Pro, S (2008) Marine Ich/ Cryptocaryon irritans- A discussion of this parasite and the treatment options available Part 1 and 2 http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-1...ture/index.php
  17. Hi Everyone, I'm looking to get into marine keeping later in the year and have been trying to decide between converting my Aqua Oak large cube tank, which will involve drilling and sumping, or getting a good AIO setup (I much prefer this idea due to keeping things simple). My end goal is a basic reef with some very easy to keep corals, less aggressive fish (my wishlist so far being Clowns, Goby's, Firefish, Bi-Coloured Blenny or similar, 6 lined Wrasse, Blue Damsels and suchlike). I based my choices on converting my 150ltr cube and so understand that the RSM C-130 would require the same smaller species choices. But I have since seen the RSM C-250 and believe that a tank this size could be a possible, certainly now that SWMBO has seen a display in a LFS and really likes it!! The thing that I like most about the RSM system is that everything is nice and tidy with no plumbing or wiring on display and it seems fairly idiot proof. It could do with a full LED system in my opinion and I believe they are releasing this on the new E-series in 2015, so maybe they'll transfer this idea across the range? I need a quiet system with minimal risk of flooding which I think RSM offer quite well, the only issue that I found were the noisy fans (which would probably be made redundant by a good LED system such as the Aqua Ray marine tile I current have on my FW tank. If any of you have any experience with RSM or any other ideas for me to explore it would be very much appreciated, I'm guessing Red Sea Kev has some experience?!? :thumbsup:
  18. My Reef

    Hi all Just thought id share some photos of my tank. Its size is 5x2x1.5 but ive been bitten by th upgrade bug again and looking for possibly an 8footer! This will be a mainly fish dominant tank with some soft corals. My present tank is sps dominant just to prove to myself I could grow them. Many of my colonies have been grown from frags so will be quite hard to let go of them! Any suggestions and comments welcome!
  19. So finally my RSM C130 arrives in the morning and it's time to start my very own tank diary. I have everything ready and once I've built it I have the rock and water arriving Thursday night. Tomorrow I'll be building the cabinet and placing the tank, getting it all wired up and connected etc ready for Thursday. First however I thought I'd start with my current tank. The tank that began my salty passion, my lickle TMC 15l Microhabitat. Back in June last year I finally took the plunge after keeping tropical freshwater fish off and on for 20 years. I've always wanted to try marine but until then never really had the chance to do it. It's been a really steep learning curve and plenty has gone wrong and plenty has gone right. A particular low point was when I lost my pulsing xenia, my small pastel green star polyps and a nice green/gold ricordea and my sun coral all at once. The crabs and my tube anemone survived ok though. The tank hadn't been doing very well for a while and I wasn't really sure why. I nearly quit right there and then. My wife however talked me into trying again. This time I decided the stock tank was rubbish. I binned the skimmer, binned the standard media, and binned the little led tile that it came with and replaced the heater. I also replaced that stock return pump with a little Eheim compact 600lph model. I used the stock return pump as a power head to create more flow, put the new return pump in the right hand chamber, the left hand chamber now houses a tiny super fish internal filter with a filter sock over it running Purigen like my own tiny little fluidised reactor. It also houses my TMC ATO. The centre chamber now runs a bag of Chemipure Elite at the bottom with a bag of Seachem Matrix on top, then a layer of JBL floss on top. The light was replace with a beamworks white and blue/actinic led panel that is loads better than the original unit. Since then the tank has been ok. Fast forward to now and it's still not perfect and keeping the parameters stable is tough. Right now I seem to have some kind of brown algae problem. I think they're diatoms but they get all over the glass and I need to clean it with a toothbrush almost every day. PO4 seems ok but then that might be because the brown stuff is using it all. I think the answer it to cut the light down and cut the feeding but I wory about my little goby because he's supposed to be fed everyday. I've been planning an upgrade for a long time now and the microhabitat was a bit of a test really to see how I did. I seem to have really been bitten by the salty bug and at last I'm about to upgrade to a tank I've always admired, the Red Sea Max. Anyway that's quite enough of my blathering on it's time to post lots of pictures of the little habitat so you can see where I'm at just before the RSM build begins.
  20. Cleaning....

    Quick question, Just been tinkering with the tank after coming home from work and was using a soft toothbrush to clean the inside of the tank and noticed under the Tunze 106 pump I have where the water gets drawn in had a lot of debris in it. So being the impulsive person I am I used the toothbrush to clean under the pump only to get loads of debris shooting round the tank!! So my question is what is the best way to clean things like this? Does anyone have some top tips on cleaning in general? Thanks Matt Also before I break it any tips on how to clean the stock skimmer that comes with the 15 and the best way to do this!?
  21. Hi, I am new to this site so hi :) I was just wondering what would be the best light for my tank. I have to say I am a total noob when it comes to this kind of thing and I only heard about this website through a friend. I have just bought a 3ft tank that has T5 lighting or something. (like i said, total noob). This is just what my mate was saying. Anyway, he was mentioning a new website that a friend of his has just started called aquatic glow and he suggested me getting a ocean ray light. Said it will do for marine or tropical. Has anyone ever used them and if so will they be alright to use on my tank? I believe they are making a software for the lights so that that users can update the settings on a computer. Any help would be much appreciated! Link here for the website if it helps: *link removed* Thanks a lot guys!
  22. Feeding

    Evening All I am in the process of setting up my Aquael Reefmax. I am planning a very simple set up with just a few easy fish and corals and a clean up crew and am wondering about feeding. I would like to be able to have some sort of automatic feed for the odd day or few days away - what do folk normally do? The Reefmax doesn,t lend itself well to an automatic dry feeder - I would have to rig up a shute through the filter cover. Is it possible to use some sort of liquid feed? or sustained release block like I have for my Koi? I am at the bottom of a steep learning curve and any advice would be welcomed.
  23. Sorry to reopen this old chestnut! I'm just wondering about your opinions on this. I ran phosphate tests today with salifert and Red Sea kits and got readings of 0.03 and 0.36 respectively. How do I know what to believe? Mike
  24. Tank Upgrade

    Hi I am thinking about upgrading my tank and have been looking at an "All Pond Solutions" 330l cabinet tank (Price is a big factor here as it seems much better value than others of a similar size - plus it seems to get really good reviews). Has anyone any experience of using these as a marine system? Not sure whether I can fit my external, hand on skimmer on this without a load of cutting which I want to avoid!! Other alternative would be to drill and fit a sump but this scares me too. Any advice will be welcome! Thanks as always Mike
  25. Hi all, I've been looking into calcium reactors for my tank. I've never had or used a calcium reactor before so i'm after peoples opinions. I don't have a sump and there's not much room left in my cabinet for more equipment, so this leaves me with the option of a "hang-on" reactor. I've come across the TMC V2 React 300 which is a compact hang on reactor suitable for aquariums up to 300l (mine is 300l). Does anyone have one of the TMC cal reactors or ever used one? I want to know how good they are and if it would be worth me getting one. Thanks