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mrdave

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mrdave last won the day on October 15

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About mrdave

  • Rank
    The Big Boss
  • Birthday 03/12/1974

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.reef-face.co.uk
  • My Tank Thread
    http://www.reef-face.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/44114-mrdaves-red-sea-reefer-xl/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Rochdale
  • Interests
    Reef Keeping
    Music
    Beer
  • First Name
    Dave
  • Salty Experience
    6-10 years

Recent Profile Visitors

1,969 profile views
  1. Tapatalk issues

    👍👍👍👍
  2. W3bbo

    A massive thanks to @w3bbo for his hard work getting Tapatalk working for you guys. It it was a software conflict after I upgraded the board software my bad
  3. Par readings

    No problem pal
  4. Par readings

    Start out at 45% pal and take it from there
  5. Hi Guys

    If you find one your happy with why change ?
  6. Hi Guys

    They are prone to do so Chris.. Always sad when we lose a fish or coral pal but part of the hobby unfortunately . Nice choice on the light by the way, you must have shares in Kraken Corals now lol
  7. Setting Up A Marine Aquarium Guys I thought I would write this thread as a start point, please feel free to add and comment. If there is anything you think I may have missed please let me know. This hobby grabs you and pulls you in so quickly before you know it its upgrade time. Fun , exciting , heartaches and pleasure – bit like a relationship. So lets start with the basic equipment and substrates needed. Aquarium Return Pump (if Sumped) External filter (if not sumped) Heaters (I always say 2 but we will come back to that) Flow pumps (water movement within the display tank) Skimmer (I always say skim from the start) Crushed coral sand (live if wanted but again Ill come to that or none if bare bottom) Rock (synthetic, live , dead reef bones etc) Set the tank up where you want it (as its hard work to move after filling) Ensure it is level both ways. Little tip here guys try to make sure the tank is not in direct sunlight as this can cause over heating and nuisance algae. Water test the tank by filling with tap water and monitor for leaks. Once you decide it is water tight add your sand and rockwork (most people build up their scape then alter take it down re build alter – so on and so on. Fill with RO water until at desired level – If you have a sump leave all pumps off until the water is at running level in both display and sump. At this point I turn on my pumps and heaters then start adding the salt until I reach slightly below my required salinity (35) Then let the system heat up to 25 degrees and adjust salinity by adding little more salt or exchange tank water for plain RO (you want to keep it low at first so as not to waste salt) Once at temperature turn on the skimmer and start your test regime , at this point I would advise to test only for Nitrate Nitrite Ammonia After initial cycle – Nitrate to nitrite to ammonia to Nitrate – Zero nitrite and ammonia start to stabilise your P04 and N03. Your skimmer will have collected some real gunk from die off from the rock and sand. This is normal. Also you will get red/brown spots and or a thin carpet on the sand this is called dinoflagellates again part of the cycle and perfectly normal. This will die off as the tank matures. Life can be added to the system by chemical induction ( I do not know enough about this to advise or by my preferred method a cup of sand from a fellow reefers system). During the cycle you must keep your water level constant by replacing the evaporation with plain RO water, most hobbyist use an ATO (Auto top off) which is a float valve or IR sensor connected to a pump in a container of RO water) Lights are not required for the cycle period. Once you are satisfied the water is fully cycled then you can add a few fish at a time ensuring the N03 is kept stable and low. Same with corals but stick with the easy to keep softies for a while.
  8. New

    Welcome to Reef Face and this wonderful hobby Mark As above pal patience is the key
  9. Setting up a holding/QT tank

    I’m not a fan of it but hope it works out
  10. Dosing made simple

    I thought I would write this post as there has been a few questions of late regarding dosing. This is my take on it and not set in stone but it works for me. If there is anything I have not covered or something you do not understand then please let me know. Why do we dose ? We dose our systems to ensure the optimum levels of the 3 main foundation elements are kept stable to ensure the health and growth of our delicate animals are kept at an optimum. Foundation elements are: (Calcium) Ca is an essential element for the growth of our corals, inverts, clams, LPS and Sps It is key to keep Ca stable and at the optimum level. Alkalinity The alkalinity is the waters ability to resist Ph changes. In our systems the animals constantly release acids that would without buffering the Alk drop the Ph Mg (magnesium) Magnesium is a very abundant element that keeps the Ca and Alk (dKH)stable, the chances are that if you are struggling keeping Ca and Alk (dKH) stable then the Mg is not balanced. When magnesium is too low then Ca generally precipitates and is not taken up into the water column. If the Magnesium is too high it can have an adverse effect on the inverts and pod life in the system. Knowing our system Before we start dosing we need to know our systems uptake and requirements. We do this by monitoring our system. Perform a test and log the results, wait 3 days then test again- simply divide the drop by 3 and you have your uptake. There are many products on the market and you must apply their calculations to get the correct dosage. Setting up the doser Locate the doser above the dosing vessels and ensure non return valves are placed on the intake and delivery end of the pump. Ensure you follow the manufacturers instructions and calibrate the unit before use. Make sure you cut the end of the tube in the vessel at approximately 45 degrees this will prevent the tube creating a vacuum and sticking to the bottom of the vessel and not dosing. The delivery end of the tubing should dose into a high flow area typically the return pump section, this will ensure the chemicals are well mixed. Dosing Sequence Ca (Calcium) Mg (magnesium) Alk (Alkalinty) Leave a minimum of 1 hour between doses to make sure the liquid has been circulated through the water column to prevent precipitation. If you are dosing amounts over 30Ml I personally would split them into 2,3 or 4 doses depending on the amount and in sequence with the other chemicals. Monitor your system after a day and record the results this way you can tweak the amounts to ensure stability. I would always advise to keep your parameters in line with the brand of salt you are using and remember NEVER DOSE SOMETHING THAT YOU ARE NOT TESTING FOR !!!! There are many other elements we can and do dose and I will do another thread on this at a later date
  11. Setting up a holding/QT tank

    I haven't been in a long long time mate, last time I went it was so bad I promised never to go again . Red Sea is the way IMO. I wouldn't bother with the live sand if I am completely honest. Get a cup full of sand from a fellow reefer and add it to yours ,during the cycle period it will introduce the bacteria to the new sand.
  12. Setting up a holding/QT tank

    Yeah I know what you mean by holding tank. Did you point the pest out to them ? Which shop was it ? (BAS??) I personally dip my corals if im in doubt - Detol all the way for me .
  13. Mg/l

    Rob have you tested your silica level ? What was the result ? I strongly believe not to add or reduce anything unless you have tested fir it first.
  14. Setting up a holding/QT tank

    I haven't used either so can not really comment other than alfagrog is natural as apposed to a man made product