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    Mixing RSCP

    mrdave
    By mrdave,

    Technical Notes
     

    Technical Notes:
    1. Coral Pro was specially designed for enhancing the calcification process in all corals. It contains elevated levels of the foundation elements (calcium, magnesium and the carbonate alkalinity components) and is recommend to be mixed to a salinity of 35ppt. The combination of high levels of foundation elements and salinity makes the elements close to their natural saturation levels in seawater enhancing the possibility of precipitation.
    2. The raw materials used in the latest formula of Coral Pro dissolve much quicker than in the past and even if the seawater is not to be used immediately, it should not be mixed for much longer than required to dissolve the salt. In fact Coral Pro salt has gone from being one of the slowest salts to dissolve, to one of the fastest, particularly when taking into account the levels of the foundation elements for the accelerated growth of SPS corals.
    3. Due to the thermodynamics of the dissolving process of the salt formula, water that is significantly cooler or warmer than the recommended 20oC/68oF will slow down the mixing process. Warmer water is a contributory factor to causing precipitation of the foundation elements making the water cloudy.
    4. Mixing the salt with high agitation at the water surface increases the amount of CO2 that evaporates from the water causing an increase in both pH and alkalinity that enhances the chance of precipitation.
    5. The built in inaccuracies of home measuring tools (weighing the salt, volume of water and quality of hydrometer/refractometer) may lead to a salinity of 1-2 ppt more than desired, increasing the chances of precipitation.
    6. Due to excessive vibration during shipping and the different particle sizes and weights of the various elements in the salt, sometimes the mix can lose some of its homogeneity. This can lead for example to higher calcium levels at the top of the bucket which can cause precipitation (cloudiness) on mixing. Dry mixing the contents of a bucket will restore the original homogeneity.


    Mixing instructions:
     

    Mixing Instructions:
    1. Use RO water that is at ambient in the UK a temperature of approximately 20C/68F is optimum .
    2. Accurately weight the salt and measure the volume of water according to the salinity you wish to achieve.
    3. Pour the salt gradually into the water. Do not pour water onto the salt.
    4. Mix vigorously (without aeration) for approximately 0.5 - 2 hours, until all of the salt is dissolved and pH has stabilized to 8.2 – 8.4 - DO NOT mix for more than 4 hours.

    5. When mixed, raise the temperature and add to the aquarium. (Not absolutely necessary for a small water change)


    Any further questions feel free to ask, I should point out that it is highly recommended to dry mix any brand of slat as they can all suffer from possible stratification.

    Check out the latest video on mixing Red Sea Coral Pro salt
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlIHJ02NaKk&feature=youtu.be

     
     

    Mg/l

    Ripcurl67
    By Ripcurl67,

    Hello guys,

    Need some help on finding out how much jbl silicate remover to add to my dd cannister reactor?My tank is a 260 ltr with no sump.It says on the instructions book to add a max 1 mg/l

    How do i convert 1mg/l to grams or kgs as i will need to measure this out to add to the reactor.

    Many thanks in advance guys.

    Rob.


    Setting up a holding/QT tank

    DJ23bol
    By DJ23bol,

    Hey guys so with setting up my new tank I will be going with dry rock and trying to keep unwanted pests to a minimum so I've got an 100l tank that I'm thinking of turning into a coral/fish holding tank so that I can inspect and monitor them for a month or two before adding them to my main reef.

    I do have a carrier bag of alfagrog that I'm planning on using in the rear sump as the tank won't have rock in I'm going to make a frag shelf unit with 2-3 tiers and add some pvc tubing for fish to hide in.

     

    So has anyone any advice or tips this will be my first holding tank but I've been toying with the idea for a year or so after having nudis come in on some zoas I bought in the past. Also a friend of mine got some zoas from a fish shop in Manchester and they had nudis aswell.

     

    I know that there's always a risk when adding new inhabitants to your tank of introducing a nasty or bug of some sort but I would just like to reduce this risk, i will also be dipping new additions before they go into the holding tank.dc5d56cebc16552251474e81ab65172e.jpgc13553becd34fd09d289a788cdae41a6.jpg9d4adc354ee774a89ea328cf55dacb23.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

     

     


    Video Section

    mrdave
    By mrdave,

    Guys and girls I have added a section to the Video tab for you to upload your tank video's . Very simple to use. Just upload it to YouTube then follow the instructions in the add video tab !!

     

    I have also been busy uploading Red sea and EcoTech information video's rather than searching youtube I have done it for you.

    If you would like any other sections adding or would like a product or manufacturers videos adding then let me or @w3bbo know

     

     

    dave


    To all guest's and visitors please read

    mrdave
    By mrdave,

    I have noticed we are getting a lot of guests reading the posts and threads, if you have come this far it only takes a matter of minuets to set up a user account. By doing that you have access to more features and also able to join in with the discussions and ask the questions you may be searching the answers for.

    We are a friendly group with many many years of experience within the hobby between us.

    REMEMBER THE ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS THE ONE YOU DO NOT ASK

    So what are you waiting for get signed up


    Reef Face

    mrdave
    By mrdave,

    Gents firstly I must apologise for my lack of activity on the forum, Ive been hectic as always

     

    I have had a chat with @W3bbo regarding the forum and forums in general.

    As we all know the forums are taking a major bashing from facebook and getting slower and slower. Whilst we do have reef face facebook and twitter along with our other facebook group "Red Sea All the Way" our main focus is on the forum.

    We have no intention of giving up on it as for many years now we have had a good solid user base and given time I truly believe that the forums will pick up again.

    If you have any ideas or wish to contribute in any way to the forum please let me or W3bbo know.

     

    Regards

     

    Mrdave


    Chaeto Reactors compared to Algae Scrubbers

    SantaMonica
    By SantaMonica,

    With more people wanting to use natural filtration for their tanks, we are going to look at the two main types of units that you can put on your system: Chaeto reactors (or "algae reactors") and algae turf scrubbers (ATS). We won’t be looking at refugiums however, since those have mostly a different purpose. This will be a multi-part post; the next post will start with the basics, so if you’d like anything in particular to be covered, let us know.
     


    what are these ?

    wraith
    By wraith,

    Hi Guys, just got back from my holiday and found some white tube things on one of my GSP, can anyone help me identify them and what I should do please ?P1140848.JPG


    New member

    Tiger tank
    By Tiger tank,

    Hi just joined the forum


    Algae scrubber sizing guidelines for DIY

    SantaMonica
    By SantaMonica,

    Any scrubbing is good scrubbing. Even a small algae scrubber on a big tank will help your glass stay clearer, longer. But beyond that, the basic guidelines for algae scrubbers are based on how much you feed each day. These guidelines are to help you get the minimum size or number of scrubbers that will still do a good job of total filtration. You cannot "over scrub", so having a larger scrubber (or more of them) simply works more like the oceans and lakes do which have enormous amounts of algae to do all the filtering. And the scrubber can go anywhere in your system; it will filter the same.

    Scrubbers are sized according to feeding. Nutrients "in" (feeding) must equal nutrients "out" (scrubber growth), no matter how many gallons or liters you have. So... 

    An example VERTICAL upflow or waterfall screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real florescent watts (not equivalent watts) of light, or half that for LEDs, for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts (6 watts LED) are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If the watts are divided on each side of the screen, it is a 2-sided screen. This should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding: 

    1 frozen cube per day (2-sided screen), or
    1/2 frozen cube per day (1-sided screen), or
    10 pinches of flake food per day (2-sided screen), or
    5 pinches of flake food per day (1-sided screen), or
    10 square inches (60 sq cm) of nori per day (2-sided screen), or
    5 square inches (30 sq cm) of nori per day (1-sided screen), or
    0.1 dry ounce (2.8 grams) of pellet food per day (2-sided screen), or
    0.05 dry ounce (1.4 grams) of pellet food per day (1-sided screen)

    Problem rocks: Each 50 pounds (2.2 kg) of nuisance algae covered rocks you have adds 1 cube a day.

    Flow or air bubbles is always 24 hours; water flow is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal.

    Floating surface scrubbers with strings: Screen size is the size of the box (Length X Width), and is 2-sided because the strings grow in 3D.

    Clean algae:

    Every 7 to 10 days, or 
    When it's black, or 
    When it fills up, or 
    When algae lets go, or
    When nutrients start to rise

    However these are just starting points; a lot of your tank filtering (especially in saltwater) is based on your rocks, so their condition plays a part too in what size scrubber to make, as well as what type of feeding you are doing, and what other filters you will be using. Here are some specific guidelines:

    FRESHWATER:

    Since freshwater grows extremely thin, long algae, scrubbers without strings are recommended. This is because you will probably need to clean the scrubber in your sink with a toothbrush (instead of in-place harvesting while still in your aquarium), and it's easier to brush a flat wall than it is to brush strings. So flat-wall scrubbers such as wide-panel bubble upflows work well in freshwater. Also, since the thin stringy freshwater algae will flow out of holes in the scrubber, if you put the scrubber in your display (where the animals are), they will learn to eat out of the scrubber and you will therefore be able to feed less. If you intend to do a large part of your feeding this way, multiple scrubbers will allow the feeding (and filtering) to continue in one when you have cleaned the other. Waterfall types are not recommended for freshwater because the long thin growth flows out of the drain.

    SALTWATER:

    With saltwater, you can get thick dense growth in the scrubber, which is when strings are an advantage (to hold on to the growth). So adding strings to a scrubber is acceptable and the decision is based on size and on where you want to put it, and also on how you want to clean it. Saltwater tanks which use live rock (even if the rock is "dead") will need to take into consideration the history of the rock: If it came from a tank with algae problems, each 50 pounds (23 kg) of this rock will add 1 cube a day to your feeding. This is because the rock is really just coral skeletons which absorbed nutrients from the water when the nutrients in the previous (or current) tank were high, and these nutrients will then start coming out and flowing into the water when your scrubber starts working. 

    After looking at size, the main consideration is where you are going to put it. Since scrubbers filter the same in any location, it is just a matter of placement. Unlike freshwater, the thicker growth in saltwater usually does not flow out of the holes or drains as much, so you can't rely on it for automatic feeding (although you can manually take some growth out, and feed that). And similar to freshwater, multiple units are better than a single unit.

    REEF:

    Reefs are the same considerations as saltwater, with the exception that some people like the reef to run as natural as possible, meaning filtered by algae alone. With that in mind, here are some more details and options:

    1)  If you are building a reef tank which is new, where the rocks are coming from the ocean or from a low-nutrient tank with no algae problems, and if you will just be feeding the fish sparingly, and if you DO want to have other filters and water changes, then you can just use the cube-feeding recommended sizes of the scrubbers.

    2)  If you are building a reef tank which is new as in #1 above, but you DON'T want any other filters or water changes, then double the recommended scrubbing amount in #1. This will supply the corals and small fish with the most amounts of food particles, and will allow filtering and feeding to continue in one scrubber after you have cleaned the other.

    3)  If you are building a reef tank which is new as in #1 or #2 above, but the rocks are coming a nutrient-problem tank which had measurable phosphate or hair algae problems, then the rocks will be soaked with phosphate and this will supply more phosphate to your new tank than your feeding will. So use the 50 pounds of rock = 1 cube of feeding guideline, to add to the recommend scrubbing amount. 

    4)  If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank, and the tank has no measurable phosphate and no nuisance algae, and if you have other filters and water changes and you DO want to keep them, then you can just use the cube-feeding sizes of the scrubbers. 

    5)  If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank as in #4 above but you DON'T want to continue using the other filters or water changes, then double the scrubber amount recommend in #4, preferably by having multiple scrubbers which are cleaned alternately. This will keep one scrubber filtering and feeding when you have cleaned the other.

    6)  If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has measurable phosphate and green hair nuisance algae on the rocks, and you DO want to continue using other filters and water changes, then you can just use the recommended cube-feeding sizes of the scrubbers. Use extra light (more LEDs) if possible because the higher phosphate in the water needs brighter LED's to make the scrubber grow green sooner. And if you double the amount of scrubbing (two units instead of one), the problems will clear up twice as fast because there will be twice the amount of algae absorbing the nutrients out of the water, especially when you clean one of them.

    7)  If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has measurable phosphate and green hair nuisance algae on the rocks as in #6 above, and you DON'T want to continue using other filters and water changes, then double the amount of scrubbing recommended in #6.

    8)  If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has NO measurable phosphate, but has LOTS of green hair nuisance algae on the rocks, then you need the strongest LEDs possible because the rocks are already full of phosphate, and the algae on the rocks is absorbing this phosphate, meaning you need the strongest scrubbing possible in order to out-compete the algae on the rocks. This is the hardest situation to fix, so you should use as much scrubbing as possible with the strongest LEDs available, and use as many other filters and water changes as possible too, until the algae on the rocks turns yellow and lets go.

    End