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The Reef-Face Team


    By mrdave,

    A massive thanks to @w3bbo for his hard work getting Tapatalk working for you guys. 


    It it was a software conflict after I upgraded the board software 


    my bad 

    Universal Hanging Bar Offer!

    iQuatics UK
    By iQuatics UK,

    Hi guys, 

    Apologies for the lack of time spent here recently, we've moved to new premises so things have been somewhat manic! 

    Just wanted to let you know about a little offer we are running the remainder of this week. 

    10% off all of our hanging bar kits, Free loop clamp upgrade, and express delivery - offer ends 15th October. 


    Shop Here : https://www.iquaticsonline.co.uk/led.html

    Tapatalk issues

    By DJ23bol,

    Hey is anyone having issues using tapatalk? I've had to use my browser to use this forum for a few days now and it's not as good if I'm honest lol I'm getting this error when trying to log in.


    Setting up a marine aquarium

    By mrdave,

    Setting Up A Marine Aquarium


    Guys I thought I would write this thread as a start point, please feel free to add and comment. If there is anything you think I may have missed please let me know.


    This hobby grabs you and pulls you in so quickly before you know it its upgrade time. Fun , exciting , heartaches and pleasure – bit like a relationship.

    So lets start with the basic equipment and substrates needed.

    1. Aquarium

    2. Return Pump (if Sumped)

    3. External filter (if not sumped)

    4. Heaters (I always say 2 but we will come back to that)

    5. Flow pumps (water movement within the display tank)

    6. Skimmer (I always say skim from the start)

    7. Crushed coral sand (live if wanted but again Ill come to that or none if bare bottom)

    8. Rock (synthetic, live , dead reef bones etc)


    Set the tank up where you want it (as its hard work to move after filling) Ensure it is level both ways.

    Little tip here guys try to make sure the tank is not in direct sunlight as this can cause over heating and nuisance algae.

    Water test the tank by filling with tap water and monitor for leaks. Once you decide it is water tight add your sand and rockwork (most people build up their scape then alter take it down re build alter – so on and so on.

    Fill with RO water until at desired level – If you have a sump leave all pumps off until the water is at running level in both display and sump.

    At this point I turn on my pumps and heaters then start adding the salt until I reach slightly below my required salinity (35) Then let the system heat up to 25 degrees and adjust salinity by adding little more salt or exchange tank water for plain RO (you want to keep it low at first  so as not to waste salt)

    Once at temperature turn on the skimmer and start your test regime , at this point I would advise to test only for

    1. Nitrate

    2. Nitrite

    3. Ammonia

    After initial cycle – Nitrate to nitrite to ammonia to Nitrate – Zero nitrite and ammonia start to stabilise your P04 and N03. Your skimmer will have collected some real gunk from die off from the rock and sand. This is normal. Also you will get red/brown spots and or a thin carpet on the sand this is called dinoflagellates again part of the cycle and perfectly normal. This will die off as the tank matures.

    Life can be added to the system by chemical induction ( I do not know enough about this to advise or by my preferred method a cup of sand from a fellow reefers system).

    During the cycle you must keep your water level constant by replacing the evaporation with plain RO water, most hobbyist use an ATO (Auto top off) which is a float valve or IR sensor connected to a pump in a container of RO water)

    Lights are not required for the cycle period.

    Once you are satisfied the water is fully cycled then you can add a few fish at a time ensuring the N03 is kept stable and low. Same with corals but stick with the easy to keep softies for a while.


    By MarkJay,

    Hi, name is Mark and new to the Reef world, ordered the Red Sea 170 Deluxe which is due to be delivered middle of next week, also had the Magnus C5 curve Skimmer, SW-4 & SW-8 wavemakers, Dcs-4000 pump, and a heater, very nervous about making sure I set it up correctly. I hear reactors mentiond a lot is this something I need to also get or add at a later date?

    looking forward to reading through the post learning and seeing some reefs for ideas

    Dosing made simple

    By mrdave,



    I thought I would write this post as there has been a few questions of late regarding dosing. This is my take on it and not set in stone but it works for me.

    If there is anything I have not covered or something you do not understand then please let me know.


    Why do we dose ?

    We dose our systems to ensure the optimum levels of the 3 main foundation elements are kept stable to ensure the health and growth of our delicate animals are kept at an optimum.


     Foundation elements are:


    1.  (Calcium)

      Ca is an essential element for the growth of our corals, inverts, clams, LPS and Sps It is key to keep Ca stable and at the optimum level.


    2. Alkalinity

      The alkalinity is the waters ability to resist Ph changes. In our systems the animals constantly release acids that would without buffering the Alk drop the Ph


    3. Mg (magnesium)

      Magnesium is a very abundant element that keeps the Ca and Alk  (dKH)stable, the chances are that if you are struggling keeping Ca and Alk (dKH) stable then the Mg is not balanced.

      When magnesium is too low then Ca generally precipitates and is not taken up into the water column. If the Magnesium is too high it can have an adverse effect on the inverts and pod life in the system.



    Knowing our system


    Before we start dosing we need to know our systems uptake and requirements. We do this by monitoring our system. Perform a test and log the results, wait 3 days then test again- simply divide the drop by 3 and you have your uptake.

    There are many products on the market and you must apply their calculations to get the correct dosage.


    Setting up the doser

    Locate the doser above the dosing vessels and ensure non return valves are placed on the intake and delivery  end of the pump.

    Ensure you follow the manufacturers instructions and calibrate the unit before use.

    Make sure you cut the end of the tube in the vessel at approximately 45 degrees this will prevent the tube creating a vacuum and sticking to the bottom of the vessel and not dosing.

    The delivery end of the tubing should dose into a high flow area typically the return pump section, this will ensure the chemicals are well mixed.

    Dosing Sequence

    1. Ca (Calcium)

    2. Mg (magnesium)

    3. Alk (Alkalinty)


    Leave a minimum of 1 hour between doses to make sure the liquid has been circulated through the water column to prevent precipitation.

    If you are dosing amounts over 30Ml I personally would split them into 2,3 or 4 doses depending on the amount and in sequence with the other chemicals.

    Monitor your system after a day and record the results this way you can tweak the amounts to ensure stability.


    I would always advise to keep your parameters in line with the brand of salt you are using and remember



    There are many other elements we can and do dose and I will do another thread on this at a later date


    Reef Sumps

    By mrdave,

    Red Sea Reefer 250.jpg

    Red Sea Reefer 170.jpg

    Red Sea Reefer 350.jpg

    Red Sea Reefer 450.jpg

    Red Sea Reefer Nano.jpg

    Mixing RSCP

    By mrdave,

    Technical Notes

    Technical Notes:
    1. Coral Pro was specially designed for enhancing the calcification process in all corals. It contains elevated levels of the foundation elements (calcium, magnesium and the carbonate alkalinity components) and is recommend to be mixed to a salinity of 35ppt. The combination of high levels of foundation elements and salinity makes the elements close to their natural saturation levels in seawater enhancing the possibility of precipitation.
    2. The raw materials used in the latest formula of Coral Pro dissolve much quicker than in the past and even if the seawater is not to be used immediately, it should not be mixed for much longer than required to dissolve the salt. In fact Coral Pro salt has gone from being one of the slowest salts to dissolve, to one of the fastest, particularly when taking into account the levels of the foundation elements for the accelerated growth of SPS corals.
    3. Due to the thermodynamics of the dissolving process of the salt formula, water that is significantly cooler or warmer than the recommended 20oC/68oF will slow down the mixing process. Warmer water is a contributory factor to causing precipitation of the foundation elements making the water cloudy.
    4. Mixing the salt with high agitation at the water surface increases the amount of CO2 that evaporates from the water causing an increase in both pH and alkalinity that enhances the chance of precipitation.
    5. The built in inaccuracies of home measuring tools (weighing the salt, volume of water and quality of hydrometer/refractometer) may lead to a salinity of 1-2 ppt more than desired, increasing the chances of precipitation.
    6. Due to excessive vibration during shipping and the different particle sizes and weights of the various elements in the salt, sometimes the mix can lose some of its homogeneity. This can lead for example to higher calcium levels at the top of the bucket which can cause precipitation (cloudiness) on mixing. Dry mixing the contents of a bucket will restore the original homogeneity.

    Mixing instructions:

    Mixing Instructions:
    1. Use RO water that is at ambient in the UK a temperature of approximately 20C/68F is optimum .
    2. Accurately weight the salt and measure the volume of water according to the salinity you wish to achieve.
    3. Pour the salt gradually into the water. Do not pour water onto the salt.
    4. Mix vigorously (without aeration) for approximately 0.5 - 2 hours, until all of the salt is dissolved and pH has stabilized to 8.2 – 8.4 - DO NOT mix for more than 4 hours.

    5. When mixed, raise the temperature and add to the aquarium. (Not absolutely necessary for a small water change)

    Any further questions feel free to ask, I should point out that it is highly recommended to dry mix any brand of slat as they can all suffer from possible stratification.

    Check out the latest video on mixing Red Sea Coral Pro salt



    By Ripcurl67,

    Hello guys,

    Need some help on finding out how much jbl silicate remover to add to my dd cannister reactor?My tank is a 260 ltr with no sump.It says on the instructions book to add a max 1 mg/l

    How do i convert 1mg/l to grams or kgs as i will need to measure this out to add to the reactor.

    Many thanks in advance guys.


    Setting up a holding/QT tank

    By DJ23bol,

    Hey guys so with setting up my new tank I will be going with dry rock and trying to keep unwanted pests to a minimum so I've got an 100l tank that I'm thinking of turning into a coral/fish holding tank so that I can inspect and monitor them for a month or two before adding them to my main reef.

    I do have a carrier bag of alfagrog that I'm planning on using in the rear sump as the tank won't have rock in I'm going to make a frag shelf unit with 2-3 tiers and add some pvc tubing for fish to hide in.


    So has anyone any advice or tips this will be my first holding tank but I've been toying with the idea for a year or so after having nudis come in on some zoas I bought in the past. Also a friend of mine got some zoas from a fish shop in Manchester and they had nudis aswell.


    I know that there's always a risk when adding new inhabitants to your tank of introducing a nasty or bug of some sort but I would just like to reduce this risk, i will also be dipping new additions before they go into the holding tank.dc5d56cebc16552251474e81ab65172e.jpgc13553becd34fd09d289a788cdae41a6.jpg9d4adc354ee774a89ea328cf55dacb23.jpg


    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk