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Popular Content

Showing most liked content since 11/19/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Unless you're into brown frags full of bryopsis and bubble algae, I really wouldn't bother. You'd be lucky to find a decent coral in the display tanks that doesn't have some form of recession, stripping or algae. Been on a downward spiral for a long time and only so much I could do with the 2 days I was in. I asked for more days to get things sorted but they weren't interested. They wanted to run it into the ground to justify closing it. Even only last week I messaged him to ask what the hell was going on and asked him outright if we were closing down. I'm not stupid, I had a feeling it was going this way but just clung on to the hope he would pull his finger outta his ar$e and sort it out or let me do it. Only last week he denied it, saying we had coral shipments on the way and it would be sorted in the new year. So late on Xmas eve I get a message from a customer saying "sorry to hear the aquarium is shutting down". I didn't have a clue what he was talking about so went on the cockfields facebook page and saw it for myself. Nice of him to let the world know before letting his staff know. I messaged him to find out what was going on and he said "I thought I text you an hour ago but it didn't go through, sorry". As if that makes it ok! Even if the text had gone through its not something that should be done by text, an hour before announcing it to the world, late on Xmas eve. He's now playing the "nobody has lost their jobs" card by saying I have opportunities to help entertain kids and maintain the farm. Neither of which I have any interest in nor was anything to do with the job I accepted when I commenced working there. The job was a sales assistant in the marine section of the business. Rather than having the decency to offer redundancy he's forcing people out by making them do jobs they have no interest in so they will leave on their own accord. Sadly, the place shutting down won't be a loss to the hobby as it's been poor for a while now which is a shame as it used to be one of the best before their attention turned to cuddly toys and bouncy castles. Anyway, hope you all had a better Christmas than I've had lol. Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge using Tapatalk
  2. 2 points
    A massive thanks to @w3bbo for his hard work getting Tapatalk working for you guys. It it was a software conflict after I upgraded the board software my bad
  3. 2 points
    I've noticed the forum running smoother and uploads are working really well. Good job guys and this is my favourite forum! It's sometimes a little quiet but has a nice feel about it I've always felt at home here Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
  4. 2 points
    I can only second what @mrdave has already said really. In truth I've been struggling with my own setup, well not so much struggling but pretty much running it on autopilot and what with the photobucket demise (no longer free) my own thread took a hit with regard to picture updates. The forum software allows us to simply drag and drop straight onto here though so I'll update my own thread before asking others to update theirs! I'm not one for facebook etc and feel the forums are where the real structured information is. The thing with facebook is trusting who is messaging. With a forum you can look back through previous posts (And tank threads) to ensure the info you're getting is based on experience and not regurgitated. We're open to any and all suggestions for how YOUR forum should be operated so please don't be shy - give us your opinions please. Long live the forum. Long live Reef-Face :).
  5. 2 points
    Tank Tests use to sell a few P04 reducing products like phos and doc (P04 remover and carbon) which worked very well but as @W3bbo stated a PITA to rinse. Rowa is essentially the P04 remover side. They also did a liquid phosphate remover which was diluted Lanthanum Chloride very effective but did bond to calcium causing precipitation (cloudy water) like I said very good but am word to the wise, if you are using it keep an eye on your Ca ! Rowa can be using in conjunction with Nopox to help bring P04 under control but only for a short period as it will strip out the P04 giving nothing for the N03 to bind to and be skimmed out. Nopox/Vodka are food for nitrifying bacteria which introduces and healthy balance of bacteria for N03 reduction. The key when carbon dosing is good skimming.
  6. 2 points
    Ok, the site is back online (sort of) but very slow due to the background processing and rebuild. This will take some time to resolve but rather than leave the forum offline for days I've put it live. All the security tasks are complete so the site is secure. There are a few bugs to work out as expected butt least then folk can post and keep in touch in the interm while I work in the background. I've made a few modifications which seem to be working (many are not which I'm aware of and working on) but if you see anything that doesn't work, missing a features etc then please post here and I will collate a work list to crack on with. Your reports are very much appreciated. There is lots of work still to do both cosmetically and functionally but like you all...I have a day job too so please be patient. To do list: Background server processing (33% complete)DONE Logo detailing Reviews & Tank of the Quarter Tab navigation Errors in library pictures re-hash of forum topics (cut the waste) DONE Clean-up/maintenance Plug-in/hook re-allocation/upgrade I'll add to the list whatever bugs you find.....there may even be a forum award for the one who finds the most
  7. 2 points
    See you there Daz. Congrats on the new job. I was speaking to Mark the other day and he said he was considering giving you the job. He asked what you were like and I said you were a ***head so I guess my opinion counts for nothing When are you setting up again then?
  8. 2 points
    Take a deep breath mate and county to 1000 ....I got them of a reefer closing his tank down and bought a few pieces , and I dipped and scrubbed everything not even realising, but a week or so later I seen a couple of them, so obviously missed some eggs....took all monti out dipped and scrubbed again and left on the sand bed for a while. And stuck back on rocks after a month or so..and ive seen the odd one every now n again and suck it up ...but think ill rip my digis out as they're looking crap probably gettin munched still ...you got wrasse in there too ? Not as bad a aefw tho mate , hopefully they'll starve like you say ....chin up mate and have a strong tea, I thought ive had bad luck with my new set up, cloudy water, velvet, bubble algae, gha, monti eating nudis, and a sh1t load of aiptasia all over now. I bet no one will cross the road with us 2 lol
  9. 2 points
    in my old tank copperbands only used to pick at the small ones the big ones i used to pull the rock out the tank and stick a red hot screw driver through it rinse the rock and brush with the miss's toothbrush rinse again then put back
  10. 2 points
    Bung some pre war questions in for @@mrdave too , only fair for the olders lol
  11. 2 points
    I do posted LPS and SPS frags (aswell as mushrooms zoa etc) only problem being these days i dont have time to keep my website up to date (let alone find all the zoa names etc)
  12. 1 point
    I had been thinking about one of these for a while a macro algae reactor but the prices for these units seem crazy for what they are so went about making one. It consists of a second-hand TMC500 pellet reactor (Thanks Shane) and a £10 waterproof 5m strip of 12v led's 300 in total and daylight spec 6000-6500k I got them and wrapped them around the reactor followed by a several rolls of insulation tape and there we have it DIY macro algae reactor I'll see how it goes And here it is fitted to the tank Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. 1 point
    Yeah I've used a cyanobacteria remover a couple of times and it worked like it stated on the packet however I found it returned after about 6months, i don't know if this was down to it just being masked by the chemical or my bad husbandry, what I've learn from weeks and weeks or researching is one of the main factors of cyanos appearance is an unbalance between your nitrates and phosphates when I got on top of this and kept them within a good ratio it never returned. Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk It was ultralife redslime remover I used Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
  14. 1 point
    It will be interesting to see your results in a few weeks time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    Interested to see what results you get.
  16. 1 point
    Thank you David, we have never tried to be the biggest but we do strive to be the friendliest . We have given our members the tools to make the forum their own but it’s down to the users to post and encourage other members and friends to sign up and join in
  17. 1 point
    Deffo interested in cheato reactors IF they can be made and sold relatively cheaply. The ARID reactor looks the business but is ridiculously expensive for what it is which is why many have taken to the DIY route. If you could produce something in the middle ground (effective but cost conscious) I'm sure it would appeal to many. For the purposes of this thread I would like to see a direct comparison of effectiveness between a cheato reactor and one of your ATS. IS one better at low or high nitrates? Positives and negatives etc. As the turf scrubber 'produces' GHA from scratch whereas the reactor simply grows cheatomorpha that is required to be added to kick things off - which route is best? Of particular interst to me is phosphate reduction effectiveness. Look forward to your updates
  18. 1 point
    if you only have a few pull them out as a Harlequin will need a lot of starfish to live which will mean you will soon need to buy starfish to feed it. I have some in mine I just pull them out now and then but if you find any munching Zoas ECT if you have Zoas then look at getting a Harlequin to take them all out but until then see them as free CUC Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  19. 1 point
    Hi, Thanks for the advice. Today I'm doing water change and had everything tested - going on holiday for a couple of weeks. My mates coming in to feed and check the tank whilst I'm away. Good news is there's been new new aiptasia since the last one 2 weeks ago so I'm hioping it's all clear now - I'll know more when I get back.
  20. 1 point
    Quick update I collected the fish a couple of weeks ago. Used a salt tube half filled with water and they were ok, which was a relief Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    I'd say if it's just for your 40's I'd say no i use mine above my apex for ecotech gear. I run 3 xr30 pros 2 mp40 qds 2 mp10 qds vectra m1 return vectra m1 water change
  22. 1 point
    Sorry guys I did have the IT2060 but decided to change to the Hydra 52 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 1 point
    Loving the light mate great results corals really healthy fish happy best £500 spent lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Just like to say thank you to @charterHouseAquatics very pleased with the service along with excellent customer service And competitive prices. As I receive these today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. 1 point
    I'm almost out of phosguard so I'll be giving this a go.
  27. 1 point
    I used to manage a few high end salt stores and the only salts they approved of that were red sea and tropical marine salts Sent from my LG-H820 using Tapatalk
  28. 1 point
    QUIZ NIGHT will be held on SUNDAY 26TH FEB STARTING AT 9PM ​​so let every one you know old and young to come and join in on the fun and banter any questions comment here or send me a pm SEE YOU ALL SUNDAY PEOPLE QM RULES ​1st answer wins ​no searching the web
  29. 1 point
    As in @@w3bbo s thread . Let's get some idea of numbers dates and locations please @@kraken corals is a must
  30. 1 point
    https://youtu.be/xIjWK8O_S6k Super clean look..
  31. 1 point
    Hello everyone, very happy to be joining the forum! I look forward to talking to you all.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Congratulations pal Hmmmmmmm setting up again ?!? Thought you said not lmao
  34. 1 point
    Well done mate, will take my head torch and look out for you next time im there lol
  35. 1 point
    Well certainly a blessing in disguise. I will be starting my new job in the next couple of weeks down at Abyss! Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge using Tapatalk
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    that will be cool try and make it a monthly thing maybe but get the 1st one out the way with and see what happens from there
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for staying open a little later on Sunday so I could collect the 3 sps mariculture and 2 peacock wrasse
  40. 1 point
    Most people use dry / man made rock these days with a swing towards being better for the environment etc, dry rock + colony = instant gratification Looking at the prices Live rock in shops is approx 12-15 per kg now (the dollar doesnt help this) Real reef rock a man made purple rock is 15-17 a kg depending if its rock or plates Aquaroche / Arka isnt on a per kg price but typically these are expensive. Dry rock (marko) is around the £6 per kg mark I find new starter tanks are mainly done these days with Dry rock + colony, its fish on day one + no hitchhikers (not initially at least) Looking at this based on say a 300 litre tank, we are assuming 30kg of rock in this case 30kg live rock = £360 or 30kg Dry Rock + Enough colony to seed = £215 If you wanted less display rock and used something like marine pure instead you could lessen the initial blow further 10kg live rock + marine pure quart + colony = £130
  41. 1 point
    Ha that's who I've just gone with! I've emailed to ask them to swap to superior as I had no idea. Didn't read the explanation on each policy till after duh. Thank you x Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
  42. 1 point
    @@mrdave yes you do pal or you know me I'll sell them lol
  43. 1 point
    Love Duncans. I thought my colony was big until I saw that! Must be twice as big! I stopped feeding mine as it was getting out of hand. Do you feed yours Grant?
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Could try an Skimz unit, Genio new skimmers, but lately AqueBee have released there new skimmers called AquaBee Cove build quality looks good. http://www.aquabee-aquarientechnik.de/indexe.html.
  46. 1 point
    My Foxface cleared up a small patch on a new coral along with YT. They thoroughly inspect every new arrival and give it a good clean which is great.
  47. 1 point
    Chromis are evil...just saying
  48. 1 point
    Thanks Dave. I'm pleased with it. Need to get my levels rights as struggling to keep my lobo and war coral in here. They are losing colour which is a shame.
  49. 1 point
    Using Seaweed to get rid of nuisance algae in your aquarium or pond, part 4 Let's start building our filter with the understanding of what the algae need to pull nutrients out of the water quickly: Light x Attachment x Turbulence. The light is obvious, and the attachment keeps the algae in place so the turbulence can occur without washing away the algae. The turbulence is the part mostly people don't understand, because they see algae in their tank without much turbulence. What they don't see is the rate of nutrient absorption; it would be very slow without turbulence, sort of like you standing in front of the oven and not letting other people get their turn to warm up. Lighting is the simple one: Photosynthesis likes red and blue color light. It absorbs red and blue, and uses it, but it does not use much green. So green is reflected back to you, and that's why lots of plants and algae look green. And for algae, it turns out that mostly red is needed. Matter of fact you can use only red if you want to. 660 nm (nanometers) in particular, which is called "deep red". 630 nm works too. And you can add a little blue, such as 430 nm if you want, but the red does most of the work. "Plant grow" lights can be bought which already have these colors. Three main types of attachment material exist: Rocks, strings and screens. Algae have developed a natural enzyme to allow them to bore into solid rock and attach to it, so if you use rock (live rock, or silica rock, for example), then the algae already know what to do. Strings, and screens, which are "new and unfamiliar material" to algae, work by offering the algae places to wrap around and attach back to themself. So while algae may not dissolve holes into nylon string or plastic screen, an algal strand can do a wrap-around and attach back to itself. Once it does this, it's as solid of a grip as with rock. Turbulence, as in a thin air/water turbulent layer, is the area where all the work goes into when building, and decisions have to be made how and where you are going to be filtering. You want a lot of turbulent "turnover" touching the algae so that new nutrients are brought to the algae each instant, and you want a very thin layer of water separating the algae from the air, so that what's called the "boundary layer" of water surrounding the algae will be very thin, thus allowing CO2 and nutrients to get in and out of the algae easily. It's like giving everyone a turn to stand in front of the oven to get warm. There are three basic ways to provide this air/water turbulence: Rivers, waterfalls, and upflows. A fast flowing river does provide fast water, but the air/water layer is rather thick because the river can get deep easy. More than about a centimeter deep will almost halt any rapid algae growth. Also, light can only reach the growth from the top, so rivers are essentially only 1-sided, which means that the bottom of the river, under the most growth, gets dark easily and can die; this stops your filtering. Therefore since rivers are less efficient, they need to be bigger to give an acceptable amount of filtering. Waterfalls solve both of the problems of rivers: The air/water layer stays thin, usually 5 mm, and if the waterfall is flowing down a thin screen with a light on both sides, then the waterfall is 2-sided instead of 1-sided. This light on both sides keeps the "roots" of the algae alive longer, so it holds on longer, thus letting it grow and filter more. Waterfalls must be above the water however, so they take a lot of space. And if the water stops, the growth dries out. Upflows, using air bubbles under water, improves upon the air/water turbulent interface of waterfalls because when air bubbles rub the algae, essentially the thickness of the water at that spot is zero for a brief instant. Plus there is an in-and-out swishing of the algae as the bubbles go by. This motion provides the thinnest boundary layer around the algae, and thus offers the least resistance to nutrient and CO2 flow into the algae. Also, upflow cannot dry out, because even if all bubbles stop, the algae just stay under water. And of course, being already under water, they essentially take up no extra space. So next time we will start making some things.
  50. 1 point
    I use a Deltec MCE600. Was noisy when I bought it second hand but sent off for red bushes for the pump and now it's relatively silent. Also pulls out a cupfull of stinky gunk every 2-3 days B)