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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi, The rock is now very dead, so I'm leaving it in old water from my water change today in a bucket for a week. I'll then rinse it off in RODI and glue it back in next Sunday. Keeping my fingers crossed that no spores were dropped after removing the rock very carefully and slowly to try to avoid the spores. My tank looks half empty without that one piece :( On a brighter note got some decent live brine shrimp (about 5 - 8mm) and my hawkfish is now suddenly VERY active chasing them. I've put a small sheet of sea veggies up for my tank but it doesn't seem interested at all. So i'll give it a couple of days then use another piece with garlic guard if it's no joy on the original piece.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi, thanks for the advice re aiptasia. I've removed the other corals from the rock and baked the rock at gas mark 5 for 2 hours, so I'm hoping thats killed it. There was also 2 small shells growing under the rock when I checked it that couldn't be seen when it was in place. They were about 3 - 4 mm and brown and looked a bit like mussels so I left them on to bake also. If i get any more aiptasia I'll try the milliput - will they not release spores as I put the milliput over them ? Thanks Chris
  5. Any scrubbing is good scrubbing. Even a small algae scrubber on a big tank will help your glass stay clearer, longer. But beyond that, the basic guidelines for algae scrubbers are based on how much you feed each day. These guidelines are to help you get the minimum size or number of scrubbers that will still do a good job of total filtration. You cannot "over scrub", so having a larger scrubber (or more of them) simply works more like the oceans and lakes do which have enormous amounts of algae to do all the filtering. And the scrubber can go anywhere in your system; it will filter the same. Scrubbers are sized according to feeding. Nutrients "in" (feeding) must equal nutrients "out" (scrubber growth), no matter how many gallons or liters you have. So... An example VERTICAL upflow or waterfall screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real florescent watts (not equivalent watts) of light, or half that for LEDs, for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts (6 watts LED) are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If the watts are divided on each side of the screen, it is a 2-sided screen. This should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding: 1 frozen cube per day (2-sided screen), or 1/2 frozen cube per day (1-sided screen), or 10 pinches of flake food per day (2-sided screen), or 5 pinches of flake food per day (1-sided screen), or 10 square inches (60 sq cm) of nori per day (2-sided screen), or 5 square inches (30 sq cm) of nori per day (1-sided screen), or 0.1 dry ounce (2.8 grams) of pellet food per day (2-sided screen), or 0.05 dry ounce (1.4 grams) of pellet food per day (1-sided screen) Problem rocks: Each 50 pounds (2.2 kg) of nuisance algae covered rocks you have adds 1 cube a day. Flow or air bubbles is always 24 hours; water flow is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal. Floating surface scrubbers with strings: Screen size is the size of the box (Length X Width), and is 2-sided because the strings grow in 3D. Clean algae: Every 7 to 10 days, or When it's black, or When it fills up, or When algae lets go, or When nutrients start to rise However these are just starting points; a lot of your tank filtering (especially in saltwater) is based on your rocks, so their condition plays a part too in what size scrubber to make, as well as what type of feeding you are doing, and what other filters you will be using. Here are some specific guidelines: FRESHWATER: Since freshwater grows extremely thin, long algae, scrubbers without strings are recommended. This is because you will probably need to clean the scrubber in your sink with a toothbrush (instead of in-place harvesting while still in your aquarium), and it's easier to brush a flat wall than it is to brush strings. So flat-wall scrubbers such as wide-panel bubble upflows work well in freshwater. Also, since the thin stringy freshwater algae will flow out of holes in the scrubber, if you put the scrubber in your display (where the animals are), they will learn to eat out of the scrubber and you will therefore be able to feed less. If you intend to do a large part of your feeding this way, multiple scrubbers will allow the feeding (and filtering) to continue in one when you have cleaned the other. Waterfall types are not recommended for freshwater because the long thin growth flows out of the drain. SALTWATER: With saltwater, you can get thick dense growth in the scrubber, which is when strings are an advantage (to hold on to the growth). So adding strings to a scrubber is acceptable and the decision is based on size and on where you want to put it, and also on how you want to clean it. Saltwater tanks which use live rock (even if the rock is "dead") will need to take into consideration the history of the rock: If it came from a tank with algae problems, each 50 pounds (23 kg) of this rock will add 1 cube a day to your feeding. This is because the rock is really just coral skeletons which absorbed nutrients from the water when the nutrients in the previous (or current) tank were high, and these nutrients will then start coming out and flowing into the water when your scrubber starts working. After looking at size, the main consideration is where you are going to put it. Since scrubbers filter the same in any location, it is just a matter of placement. Unlike freshwater, the thicker growth in saltwater usually does not flow out of the holes or drains as much, so you can't rely on it for automatic feeding (although you can manually take some growth out, and feed that). And similar to freshwater, multiple units are better than a single unit. REEF: Reefs are the same considerations as saltwater, with the exception that some people like the reef to run as natural as possible, meaning filtered by algae alone. With that in mind, here are some more details and options: 1) If you are building a reef tank which is new, where the rocks are coming from the ocean or from a low-nutrient tank with no algae problems, and if you will just be feeding the fish sparingly, and if you DO want to have other filters and water changes, then you can just use the cube-feeding recommended sizes of the scrubbers. 2) If you are building a reef tank which is new as in #1 above, but you DON'T want any other filters or water changes, then double the recommended scrubbing amount in #1. This will supply the corals and small fish with the most amounts of food particles, and will allow filtering and feeding to continue in one scrubber after you have cleaned the other. 3) If you are building a reef tank which is new as in #1 or #2 above, but the rocks are coming a nutrient-problem tank which had measurable phosphate or hair algae problems, then the rocks will be soaked with phosphate and this will supply more phosphate to your new tank than your feeding will. So use the 50 pounds of rock = 1 cube of feeding guideline, to add to the recommend scrubbing amount. 4) If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank, and the tank has no measurable phosphate and no nuisance algae, and if you have other filters and water changes and you DO want to keep them, then you can just use the cube-feeding sizes of the scrubbers. 5) If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank as in #4 above but you DON'T want to continue using the other filters or water changes, then double the scrubber amount recommend in #4, preferably by having multiple scrubbers which are cleaned alternately. This will keep one scrubber filtering and feeding when you have cleaned the other. 6) If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has measurable phosphate and green hair nuisance algae on the rocks, and you DO want to continue using other filters and water changes, then you can just use the recommended cube-feeding sizes of the scrubbers. Use extra light (more LEDs) if possible because the higher phosphate in the water needs brighter LED's to make the scrubber grow green sooner. And if you double the amount of scrubbing (two units instead of one), the problems will clear up twice as fast because there will be twice the amount of algae absorbing the nutrients out of the water, especially when you clean one of them. 7) If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has measurable phosphate and green hair nuisance algae on the rocks as in #6 above, and you DON'T want to continue using other filters and water changes, then double the amount of scrubbing recommended in #6. If you are adding a scrubber to an existing reef tank that has NO measurable phosphate, but has LOTS of green hair nuisance algae on the rocks, then you need the strongest LEDs possible because the rocks are already full of phosphate, and the algae on the rocks is absorbing this phosphate, meaning you need the strongest scrubbing possible in order to out-compete the algae on the rocks. This is the hardest situation to fix, so you should use as much scrubbing as possible with the strongest LEDs available, and use as many other filters and water changes as possible too, until the algae on the rocks turns yellow and lets go. End
  6. 2 - RAIN2 with 4 lights 1 - RAIN2 with 2 lights 0 - RAIN2 with 1 light (1 week time to ship) 2 - SURF8 2 - SURF8x 6 - SURF4 3 - SURF4x 10 - SURF2 6 - SURF2x 3 - SURF2xx 7 - HOG3 4 - HOG3x 2 - HOG3xx 5 - HOG2 6 - HOG1.3 20 - HOG1 6 - HOG1x 20 - HOG.5 4 - DROP1.4 1 - DROP1.4x 3 - DROP1.2 2 - DROP1.2x 6 - DROP.6 10 - DROP.6x 5 - DROP.2 7 - Fusion 700 air pumps 1 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - black 0 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - white 5 - 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 2 -- 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 10 - 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 4 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 0 - WAVY (2 week time to ship) Purchase at: www.Santa-Monica.cc Selection chart: http://algaescrubber.net/WhichOne.jpg
  7. I'd say so yeah. Raising mag stupidly high (1500+) sometimes helps. My foxface nailed whatever bryopsis I ever had.
  8. Boiling it should be fine. You could just put a small piece of milliput over the nem which would save you a lot of hassle. Chances are though if there's one in the tank, more will have already seeded unless you are incredibly lucky.
  9. Hi, after checking youtube I think it's aiptasia, I'm thinking of pulling the other corals off the rock and taking out the rock. If i bake the rock or boil it for 1/2 hour or so will that be enough to get rid of it or should I just dump the rock and find a brand new flatish piece for the bridge that my shrimp lives in ?
  10. By the way, I've noticed a little brown anemone type thing growing on a piece of rock I got that had been used before -does anyone know what it is and let me know if it's good or bad please. If it's bad how do I get rid of it please ? I've tried to post a pic of it but I get a notification saying I can't cause I posted the other pic so I'll try and post it on the new tank part ? Thanks
  11. Hi Guys, thanks for the replies and advice. Week 7 I think and back home again, the corals are growing nicely, the clean up crew are doing well and the fish are all getting along. I've added a bicolour blenny and a long nosed hawkfish. It took a couple of days for the hawkfish to stop hiding against either the heaters or the thermostat rod. My Nitrate levels are now finally where they should be and the brown crap on the glass is dissappearing (the snails are munching through it at a steady pace :)) my PH is constant at 8, my salinity again is constant at 1.024 and everything looks hunky dory so far. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that I haven't jinxed it now.
  12. Skimmer poss going nuts due to the filter socks you put on, they have something on them that makes my skimmer go nuts (Bubble Magnus)!! Give them a good rinse in RO first, works for me. Tank looking great BTW! šŸ‘šŸ¼
  13. Is this what I think it is??
  14. Earlier
  15. 2 - RAIN2 with 4 lights 1 - RAIN2 with 2 lights 0 - RAIN2 with 1 light (1 week time to ship) 2 - SURF8 2 - SURF8x 4 - SURF4 3 - SURF4x 10 - SURF2 6 - SURF2x 3 - SURF2xx 8 - HOG3 4 - HOG3x 2 - HOG3xx 5 - HOG2 6 - HOG1.3 20 - HOG1 6 - HOG1x 20 - HOG.5 4 - DROP1.4 2 - DROP1.4x 3 - DROP1.2 1 - DROP1.2x 7 - DROP.6 11 - DROP.6x 5 - DROP.2 8 - Fusion 700 air pumps 1 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - black 1 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - white 5 - 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 2 -- 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 10 - 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 4 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 0 - WAVY (2 week time to ship) Purchase at: www.Santa-Monica.cc Selection chart: http://algaescrubber.net/WhichOne.jpg
  16. Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk Small video, both rams have died. Seriously annoyed but I should of done more research [emoji853] Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
  17. 2 - RAIN2 with 4 lights 0 - RAIN2 with 2 lights (1 week time to ship) 0 - RAIN2 with 1 light (1 week time to ship) 2 - SURF8 2 - SURF8x 3 - SURF4 3 - SURF4x 9 - SURF2 6 - SURF2x 3 - SURF2xx 7 - HOG3 3 - HOG3x 2 - HOG3xx 5 - HOG2 5 - HOG1.3 20 - HOG1 7 - HOG1x 20 - HOG.5 4 - DROP1.4 2 - DROP1.4x 3 - DROP1.2 2 - DROP1.2x 9 - DROP.6 9 - DROP.6x 3 - DROP.2 9 - Fusion 700 air pumps 1 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - black 1 - GEM5 set of four grow lights - white 5 - 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 2 -- 4x6 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 10 - 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 5x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 4 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (1 mm thick) 3 -- 7x7 Green Grabber Screen (2 mm thick) 0 - WAVY (2 week time to ship) Purchase at: www.Santa-Monica.cc Selection chart: http://algaescrubber.net/WhichOne.jpg
  18. Hi Dave, I got a bubble Magus C3 HOB for the time being this morning, seems OK at the moment till after my holidays
  19. I have got a redwood tree stump part covered in Java moss Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk
  20. Now running two u3 fluval filters and two 300w heaters ( I'm planning to upgrade after Xmas). Fishy wise I've been naughty but am watching closely. My lfs is moving to a different location to has 25% off so had to take advantage! Now have : 15 serpae tetra 7(ish) peppered Cory most of them were born in this tank 2 Cory Schwarzi 1 angel 2 breeding kribs 2 electric blue rams 1 plec Plec and peppered are from the old set up. Everyone is getting on fine as long as they stay away from the kribs home [emoji43][emoji43] Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
  21. I appear to have deleted all the piccys showing the stages of removal but I'm sure you all get the idea.... The glass art of the weir was the most difficult to remove but it eventually came off then I used that to block the holes also filling with aquarium silicon first [emoji6] Crappy blue back has finally gone [emoji41] and is now nice and black Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
  22. Oh yes but I'm still at a hotel at the moment. I have a couple of videos also should be home in a couple of hours and will upload then [emoji3] Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
  23. Sounds great. Got any pics?
  24. So quite a few changes made since I last posted. Sump and weir have now gone as the filtration just wasn't cutting it and my fish kept disappearing and were a nightmare to retrieve! Back has been now painted black, black sand /gravel has gone and in its place is lovely jubbly white sand [emoji7] My neons and lamp eyes were rehomed leaving me with my awesome Cory's, God I love these fish More to follow Sent from my F3111 using Tapatalk
  25. at last some of my plants have arrived and are in, still cloudy from planting and they need time to settle
  26. I'd advise you to get a deltec MC series skimmer pricey but good
  27. Hi Dave, I just got a cheap one originally a Boyu DG-2516 however it's gone haywire and started overflowing all the time so it's going back before it floods my living room :(
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